Fried chicken, kakigōri and one very good waffle: The best meals Salon staffers ate in 2022
As 2022 comes to a close, the Salon Food team asked the Salon team at large, “What were your most significant, enjoyable food memories of the year?” This question yielded some fascinating responses, as you’ll soon see.
Food, of course, has an amazing way of distilling or clarifying a complex memory or moment into something immediately recognizable: a personal moment that happened to occur during an otherwise unexciting meal, an especially elevated meal that crystallized a social occasion that meant something to you, a dish you cooked yourself or something else entirely, like a food gift that you appreciated or something with deep personal meaning.
Did you have any especially noteworthy meals — whether cooked by you or someone else — this year? Please e-mail us and let us know! In the meantime, here were some of our favorites.
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“In early January, I kicked muddy snow off my boots and slid into a warm booth facing the open kitchen at Penny’s Noodle Shop, a Chicago institution since 1991 that’s located less than half a mile from Wrigley Field, home of the Cubs. Stephen — my partner in both life and dining — had been talking about this place since we made the decision amid the pandemic to boomerang back to Chicago together after respectively spending years away. While I had miraculously never visited, it was his go-to place for about a decade and I had heard him wax poetic more than once about their lad nar. Sometimes written as lard na or laad na, Penny’s version features ‘stir-fried broccoli, carrot and ginger in a light gravy served over crispy pan fried wide rice noodles.’ Sounds simple, right? And it is.
But sitting there, with the light rumble of the L track overhead, it felt like I was absorbing Stephen’s memories of the neighborhood through a kind of culinary osmosis. We’ve returned a bunch over the last year — after I learned to ride a bicycle through busy Wrigleyville traffic, after we got our Chicago library cards — to make some new memories, too.”
“The most heavenly kakigōri at Nashville’s Locust. Come for chef-owner Trevor Martin’s sublime dumplings, made with heritage pork fed to marbled perfection on sake byproduct, yes. But stay for the kakigōri: a loaf-shaped shareable dessert of delicately shaved ice layered over rotating complex flavorful fillings — mousse, cream, curd — then finished with a drizzle of syrup.”
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