The ’90s Dress Trend That’s Back for Summer—and More Rebellious Than Ever

2 min read

From the milkmaid midi that dominated last year to the corset dresses at every wedding this summer, fashion loves to throw us a curveball every now and again: a piece that frames femininity in a new, sometimes challenging, light.

Now, it’s the season of the babydoll dress: a silhouette steeped in fashion lore—as well as a dose of overbaked controversy. Following in the footsteps of grunge’s first lady Courtney Love, Olivia Rodrigo is the name behind this year’s babydoll revival, making the thigh-grazing silhouette her signature for the tour of her album, you look pretty sad for someone so in love.

As a child of the Nineties, this is one summer microtrend I can fully get behind. To those of us old enough to remember Love’s enthralling stage presence, the babydoll dress isn’t a marker of girlishness, but one of rebellion. Thigh-grazing hems and delicate lace trims don’t feel so cutesy when teamed with a pair of Dr. Martens and rage you can smell through a TV screen.

What’s more, the babydoll’s voluminous, thigh-skimming proportions are endlessly flattering—particularly for the petite among us. If voluminous midi dresses make you feel as though you’re drowning in fabric, this is the alternative for you.

So, how to style a babydoll dress now? Really, there are no restrictions. Take your cues from the women of grunge (as I will be) and pair a vintage babydoll—bonus points for sugared-almond silk—with a pair of lace-up boots, or try something less arresting and opt for a pair of ballerina flats. Trainers work too: add ribbed socks and a bomber jacket to complete a look so contrasting, it somehow works perfectly. And for evening? Steer clear of dainty heels, employing a sharply pointed flat instead.

Of course, it goes without saying that this is one dress silhouette made for heatwaves and holidays. Choose crisp cotton or pure silk, and you’ll breeze through the most stifling of days without breaking a sweat. One of the best I’ve found comes courtesy of Free People: its pure cotton design comes in bold red, complete with intricate trims that amp up the vintage feel. The Australian brand My Mum Made It creates some note-perfect puff-sleeve minis, while Elsa Hosk’s Helsa label has gone big on tiny dresses. Below, see the best babydoll dresses to wear with defiance this summer.

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