ELLE Escapes: Budapest

It seems like everyone is going to Europe these days, but famous stops like Paris, Lisbon, or the Amalfi Coast usually get most of the spotlight. Just a little further east, the oft-overlooked but easy to love Budapest is just as worthy of a gem as the rest. The Hungarian capital is rich in its own history, art, and architecture, with a growing food scene and rising film industry.

In the summer, you can soak in the outdoor baths (there are many indoor options too); and during the holidays, you might swing by the Christmas markets in the town squares. Stop by Nanushka to shop while sipping on coffee, or if you prefer something stronger, step into one of the many bars for pálinka, Hungary’s national fruit-based spirit. The sights are aplenty, from the Buda Castle to the Chain Bridge, the Parliament Building, and even the Corinthia, which Wes Anderson visited as research for The Grand Budapest Hotel. Below, find a few more suggestions for how to pass the time during your trip.

What to See

---

The Hungarian State Opera House

The Hungarian State Opera House just reopened in 2022 after renovations, but it’s over 130 years old. Come to this renowned venue for performances from Hungarian and international vocalists; the Hungarian National Ballet, the only classical ballet company in the country; and the Hungarian State Opera Orchestra, the oldest in Hungary. As you head in, you’ll get a sense of the institution’s rich history from the building and its Neo-Renaissance design. Everything from the sculpture-lined limestone facade, to the grand staircase, to the resplendent three-story auditorium is magnificent. If you can’t make it to a show, even just a tour of the place is worth it.

Dunarama Sightseeing Cruise

Budapest is a fairly walkable city, and the public transportation is easy to use (especially if you have the BudapestGO app), but if you want to take in the sights from a different POV, might I suggest a boat cruise on the Danube? If the weather’s nice, you can sip on champagne at sunset and get clear views of both the Buda and Pest sides of the city. Head under the Chain bridge and pass by landmarks like the Parliament building and Gellért Hill.

Gellért Thermal Bath

Gellért Thermal Bath first opened in 1918, and is comprised of indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, steam rooms, and various spa treatments. It incorporates water from hot springs on-site, which are said to have a myriad of medicinal benefits. One of the more popular baths in the city, it’s frequented by travelers, and it’s easy to see why with its Art Nouveau architecture, stained glass accents, mosaic tiles, and overall regal feel. You’ll want to soak for hours.

Where to Eat

---

Déryné

Ever since its opening in 1914, Déryné has prided itself on serving the local community. (Today, drawings of neighborhood dogs are featured throughout the wine list.) Now, this beloved spot in Buda attracts both new and familiar faces. The vibe is chic yet homey; you’ll find crates of fruits and vegetables lining the bar, daily newspapers hanging on clipboards, vinyl records on display, and collections of framed photographs and books to peruse. Come by for breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee, or drinks; or enjoy the weekly Sunday brunch party. If it’s on the menu, get the Katsu Milanese, the restaurant’s take on schnitzel, and Túrógombóc for dessert, a spin on the sweet Hungarian cottage cheese dumplings. You also can’t go wrong with oysters, steak, and wine. And if you can’t stay for a full meal, grab some fresh house-made bread from the bakery right outside.

Felix Kitchen & Bar

Felix overlooks the Danube in what was once the Várkert Kiosk, which apparently used to pump water to the Royal Palace. Today, it’s a fine dining establishment that offers a blend of Hungarian and international dishes (including wagyu beef, guacamole with pico de gallo, and mango sticky rice), courtesy of executive chef Dániel Katona. There’s an array of caviar, seafood, and grilled meats to choose from, but as for drinks, well, there are 200 liquors and about 500 types of wine.

Hilda

At this bistro, located just a few blocks from St. Stephen’s Basilica, the flavors are as vibrant as the blue and gold mosaic interiors. The menu changes year-round, but the rotisserie chicken, slow-roasted and topped with a swirl of sauces and spices, remains Hilda’s signature dish. Even classic plates like goulash are tasty, and máglyarakás (Hungarian bread pudding), made with brioche here, is highly recommended.

Where to Drink

---

Society25

This underground speakeasy is tucked beneath the W Hotel, boasting a sophisticated ambiance with its rich emerald walls, gold detailing, and pointed arches. It’s the perfect place for a nightcap, especially if you opt for one of the bar’s eight custom cocktails honoring Budapest’s history: like the Kaleidoscope, with Roku gin, rhubarb, and grapefruit cordial; the coffee-infused Brew Bop, which pays tribute to the city’s historic coffee houses; or the Geranium (pictured), with Irsai Olivér white wine, St. Germain, homemade lavender syrup, lemon juice, and egg white. Cheers to head bartender Stefano Ripiccini.

Béla

Béla is a cozy café and bar located in a more residential area on the Buda side of the city. The eclectic furnishings and murals give the space a warm, welcoming charm, and there are even places to sit upstairs or outside during warmer temperatures. Grab a glass of wine or beer, or a cocktail, or even a full meal while you’re at it. The Negroni is a popular pick, but so is Silence, Bela’s secret drink which combines rum, green tea, cherry blossom bitters, and lime. Sometimes you can enjoy live music there, too.

Solid

Perched atop Hotel Rum, just a few stories above its Michelin-starred sister restaurant Salt, Solid offers incredible views of the city. You can stop here for breakfast/brunch (the grilled sausages are fantastic) and dinner, but its wine selection is extensive, with varieties from Hungary and elsewhere across Europe. Sip on a couple glasses while you take in the view.

Where to Stay

---

W Budapest

This W location is all about embracing duality—historic but hip, elegant yet edgy, classy and cool. It blends the hotel brand’s signature bold design with a storied setting, the Drechsler Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site that was once home to the Hungarian State Ballet Academy. Within the 151 rooms and suites, in the airy glass-covered courtyard, and elsewhere throughout the hotel, you’ll find stained glass, intricate tiling, vibrant blue and green color palettes, and checkerboard patterns, in honor of Budapest’s love of chess. In fact, much of the thoughtful design behind this long-awaited renovation is a tribute to the Hungarian capital and its icons, like the Széchenyi Baths, Harry Houdini, and Zsa Zsa Gabor, according to interior designers Bowler James Brindley and Bánáti + Hartvig. Guests can unwind at the AWAY Spa, go shopping on Andrassy Avenue, or enjoy a night at the opera, right across the street. And you must share a meal at Nightingale by Beefbar, featuring Asian-inspired cuisine from chef Fabio Polidori.

Matild Palace

Another UNESCO World Heritagesite-turned luxury stay is Matild Palace, which was originally built in 1902, with Princess Maria Klotild of Saxe Coburg and Gotha as its patron. After a recent five-year renovation, it reopened in 2021 as a 130-room hotel that still echoes its royal origins through ornate and classic details, paired with touches of local Hungarian design. (Wait until you see the marble and gold walls in the bathroom of the presidential suite.) The site also contains a spa, Wolfgang Puck’s Spago restaurant, a café inspired by the Belle Époque era, and the Duchess rooftop overlooking the Danube and Elisabeth Bridge. Fun fact: The first elevator system installed in Hungary lies right in this building, and it still works.

Dorothea Hotel

This new hotel, just a few blocks in from the river, is actually three buildings in one. But the design embraces that contrast and mix of aesthetics throughout the building; portraits from the National Gallery are printed on doors; the sleek, modern atrium rooms face the inner garden and restaurant, while heritage rooms, fashioned like classic European apartments, look toward the street. (There are no bad views here.) The Pavilion Restaurant & Bar is definitely a highlight, feeling like an oasis with its water features and lush greenery and herbs. If you’re lucky enough to score the penthouse at this property, you’ll have panoramic views of the city and a hot tub (on the balcony) at your disposal. Be sure to stop by the 650-square-meter spa while you’re here.

Beauty Picks

---