Chitose Abe on the Next Era of Sacai

At Sacai’s spring/summer 2027 show at the Collège des Bernardins this morning in Paris, models walked through the grand space wearing pointedly dark and feminine jackets, skirts, and dresses decked in golden metallic embellishment and chunky frilled tassels. A handful of them wore T-shirts with the message “a moment of becoming,” a teaser for Sacai founder Chitose Abe’s inspiration. The label came back to the runway after taking a bit of a pause to reset, opting out of the usual Paris Fashion Week schedule last season. The inspiration this time? Personal evolution, quiet resolve, and human complexity.

“Many things are happening in the world, and it’s a time of change,” Abe said immediately following the show, through an interpreter. “I felt like that was the moment in time where I would love to evolve. I’m always trying to evolve. I don’t think it has to be this way or the other. I’m trying to move forward, but not just the bright side, but also both sides, with all things in the word.”

The label’s standout looks were deep and dark, layered in mesmerizing embellishment like long, shining fringe. The collection may have been about exploring development, but it also showed a new, luxuriously dark, feminine side of Sacai. With ample opulent finishings, ornate fringe, layers, and patterns, there was a lot to explore.

The clothing had a distinct over-the-top, celebratory energy and, in some cases, transcended the need for accessories. Take, for instance, the prints, which mimicked layers and layers of golden jewelry. Abe said she was focused on “multiple emotions across different genders: masculine, feminine,” and mixing streetwear together. The aforementioned jewelry prints and slogan T-shirts epitomized her theme. “By showing those words, I’m trying to show the real beauty, including both strength and flaws, and including the real and unreal things together,” she said.

Playing up the dynamism that Abe mentioned, a good portion of the collection was also rendered in cloud-like white, with wild, voluminous silhouettes. Statement skirts, a major trend of the season, came with sculptural mermaid tail shapes and extra-large fringe. Even if it’s a slightly new chapter for Sacai, the outerwear is as strong as ever. With nipped waists, bell sleeves, utilitarian pockets, and ornate linings, the pieces were standouts while still being hyper functional. Jeweled collars and tulle-like skirts in dark tones cemented the moment as being one of celebration and showed the power of wearing black even in the warmer months. Moving forward looks good on Sacai.