Why I keep returning to the Twin Cities

For months, many people have had their eyes glued to the Twin Cities through the lens of international headlines. The most recent atrocities in Minneapolis showed the world how the city and the people who call it home fight back, but if you’ve been paying attention, you’ll know they’re not new to resilience, community and showing up for one another however they can.

I’ve had a soft spot for Minneapolis and St. Paul for a long time. It was the only place where I hosted not one, but two stops on my book tour after the publication of “Mechanic Shop Femme’s Guide to Car Ownership,” and where I had the privilege of speaking at Subaru’s DEIB conference. I’ve returned, spending time with friends, exploring neighborhoods, enjoying the parks and marveling at the lakes that seem to appear around every corner.

The Twin Cities are home to a thriving food scene, welcoming people and no shortage of things to do. If you’re planning a visit, here are some of the restaurants, parks and local favorites that are sure to make you fall in love as I did.

Fine dining

Khâluna — I arrived at Khâluna straight from the train station, suitcase in hand, and was immediately blown away. Chef Ann Ahmed’s Lao restaurant is bright and airy, filled with greenery and anchored by a sprawling patio that feels like a natural extension of the dining room.

The menu is packed with fresh herbs, flowers and bold flavors. While nothing I tried packed much heat (I have a high spice tolerance), every dish felt vibrant and carefully balanced. Start with the jeow trio — especially the mushroom jeow. The traditional Lao dipping sauces elevate nearly everything on the menu and taste just as good when you scoop them up with sticky rice.

Among the mains, the pan-seared half chicken with smoked red curry and purple sticky rice was the standout. The rich, fragrant curry sauce tied the dish together and lingered in my memory long after dinner. Don’t skip dessert, either, and if you’re a coffee drinker, order the Lao coffee, served with condensed milk and a sugar cube on the side so you can customize the sweetness to your liking.

Bûcheron — James Beard Award-winning Bûcheron may have softened my love-hate relationship with French cuisine. The intimate restaurant is dimly lit, romantic and undeniably cozy, with tables packed close together. And it’s worth being a little squished to experience the magic. Chef Adam Ritter and hospitality director Jeanie Janas Ritter combine Midwest ingredients with French technique, creating a menu that feels both refined and approachable.

One of the night’s standout dishes was the venison tartare, topped with poached egg yolk and spruce tips and served with rye crackers. The pommes dauphine — crispy, cheesy potato puffs paired with a rich Gruyère dipping sauce — were equally memorable. For mains, the grilled rainbow trout with Carolina Gold rice and espelette-citrus beurre blanc was beautifully balanced, while the butternut squash agnolotti with Madeira foam and ricotta offered a rich, comforting counterpoint.

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Borough — Located in Minneapolis’ North Loop, Borough occupies a warehouse building that embraces industrial charm with exposed brick, visible pipes and comfortable seating. During warmer months, the patio offers an excellent spot for al fresco dining. The menu is designed for sharing, though a few dishes may tempt you to keep them to yourself.

My favorite was the spicy lobster spaghetti, tossed in chili tomato sauce and topped with bottarga and breadcrumbs for texture. The pan-seared salmon was another highlight, served over zucchini with coconut beurre blanc and curry-chili crisp. Save room for dessert: the dark chocolate budino, topped with salted caramel whipped cream and Biscoff crumble, is rich without feeling overwhelming.

P.S. Steak — Housed in a historic building, P.S. Steak leans into its vintage charm with dark lighting, a crackling fireplace and a distinctly romantic atmosphere. As the name suggests, steak is the main event, with options ranging from dry-aged ribeyes and picanha to A5 Wagyu New York strip, plus add-ons like roasted bone marrow and curry béarnaise.

Despite all the deliciousness, my favorite bite of the meal wasn’t a steak at all. It was the aligot, a gloriously stretchy, cheese-laden French potato dish that’s every bit as decadent as it sounds. If you have time before or after dinner, take a stroll through nearby Loring Park and enjoy one of Minneapolis’ abundant green space.

Brunch

Black Duck Spirits & Hearth — Chef Sawicki blends duck, fire and his Polish heritage into a distinctive Minneapolis restaurant concept. Much of the menu is prepared over a live hearth, and traditional Polish dishes sit alongside inventive creations like duck confit cabbage rolls and pork belly pączki. (Don’t worry — sweet varieties like raspberry and apple pączki are on the menu, too.)

Duck appears everywhere, from the decor to the menu itself. If you’re a burger lover, order the duck burger, made with in-house ground duck and served Oklahoma-style with grilled onions. For maximum duck-on-duck goodness, add crispy duck bacon and a gooey duck egg.

Potsticker MN — For handmade dumplings in St. Paul, head to aptly named Potsticker MN. The restaurant makes eight varieties of potstickers in-house, including kimchi pork, curry chicken, butternut squash and shrimp, and vegan options like tofu with mushroom and kale.

The dumplings may be the star, but they’re far from the only reason to visit. The smoky cucumber salad offers a refreshing contrast, while the pork belly rice bowl is rich and satisfying enough to stand as a meal on its own. Other menu highlights include garlic sauce eggplant, ribeye noodles and General Tso’s chicken. Whatever you order, don’t skip the dipping sauces — there are five to choose from.

Gai Noi — Brunch at Gai Noi checks every box: a lush rooftop filled with greenery, warm service and memorable food. Chef Ann Ahmed’s more casual follow-up to Khâluna features an extensive menu, and gratuity is already included in the pricing.

Standout dishes include the grilled salmon skewers with peanut dipping sauce, crispy pork belly, and any of the restaurant’s jeow dipping sauces paired with sticky rice. The crispy fried tofu, coated in a sweet-and-spicy sauce, is another must-order. Save room for dessert, especially the kanom krok, a crispy round pancake filled with coconut cream that’s lightly sweet and impossible to stop eating.

Fast-casual

Baba’s Hummus House — Baba’s Hummus House is a Palestinian American fast-casual restaurant whose food feels anything but casual. The bright, colorful space offers plenty of seating and a patio for warmer days, making it an easy place to linger.

The menu centers on ultra-creamy hummus bowls served with pillowy pita puffs and topped with everything from falafel to Wagyu shawarma. You’ll also find made-to-order mana’eesh baked in a brick oven, along with sandwiches and salads. The Jinba + Za’atar mana’eesh stood out for its beautifully charred crust, the result of a 72-hour fermentation and a scorching-hot oven.

Don’t miss the batata harra, crispy spiced potatoes served with toum, a punchy garlic-and-lemon dip that’s so good you’ll need to take a container home. Thankfully, Baba’s sells its packaged toum in the café. Before you leave, order a coffee — flavors like rose water, pistachio, and orange blossom tahini offer a refreshing finish to the meal.

Midtown Global Market and Powderhorn Park — If you’re the kind of traveler who struggles to choose just one place to eat, Midtown Global Market is your answer. The bustling food hall brings together cuisines from around the world under one roof, so you can indulge in a variety of deliciousness.

Standouts include the carnitas tacos and tamarind agua fresca at El Taco Torro, creative pies at Pizza Luna, house-smoked barbecue from Rollin Nolen’s BBQ, and Indian and Nepalese street food from Momo Dosa. Newer additions include Somali restaurant 7 Spices and Trio, which specializes in plant-based soul food.

Once you’ve made the difficult decision of what to order, take your meal a block and a half down the road to Powderhorn Park. Built around a small lake, the park offers plenty of places to sit, eat and watch the ducks glide by. After lunch, take a leisurely lap around the water and enjoy another one of Minneapolis’ charming neighborhood green spaces.

Bars and cafes

Nur House Cafe — If you’re in need of a caffeine break and something sweet, make time for Nur House Cafe. The standout drink on my visit was the triple berry matcha, made with first-harvest organic matcha, house-made berry syrup and vanilla cream. Vibrant green and pleasantly balanced, it was refreshing without being overly sweet.

I was also tempted by the salted date caramel matcha, which may be reason enough for a return trip. Pair your drink with the cardamom spice loaf, a warmly spiced treat that makes an ideal afternoon pick-me-up.

K’kinaco Nikkei & Pisco Bar — Fans of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine will find plenty to love at K’kinaco Nikkei & Pisco Bar. The restaurant celebrates Nikkei cuisine, a culinary tradition that blends Japanese techniques with Peruvian ingredients, and pairs it with a thoughtful menu of pisco-based cocktails and tasting flights.

While the drinks draw plenty of attention, the food deserves equal billing. The shrimp and vegetable tempura was remarkably light and crisp, while the tiraditos — sashimi dressed with vibrant Peruvian sauces — showcased the restaurant’s unique perspective. The mahi mahi ceviche and classic lomo saltado are also worth ordering if you’re looking for a broader introduction to the menu.

Isles Bun & Coffee — The line outside Isles Bun & Coffee should tell you everything you need to know. The beloved Minneapolis bakery is famous for its oversized, gooey cinnamon rolls, but there are plenty of other temptations on display, including caramel pecan buns, sticky buns and seasonal specialties.

As good as the sweet offerings are, don’t overlook the savory pastries. The cheddar scone was my favorite bite of the visit, striking a perfect balance between rich and sharp. If you’re stopping by during a busy weekend, consider ordering ahead online to avoid missing out on popular items.

Hotels

The Saint Paul Hotel — Overlooking Rice Park in downtown St. Paul, the Saint Paul Hotel delivers old-world elegance with the kind of attentive service that’s increasingly rare. Uniformed doormen greet guests at the entrance, while chandeliers, fireplaces and classic architectural details reinforce the hotel’s historic character.

I stayed in a Landmark King room overlooking the park. The accommodations fit the historic bill and offer a comfortable and convenient home base for exploring downtown St. Paul, with restaurants, parks and the Mississippi River all within easy walking distance.

Guests can dine at The Drake or the acclaimed St. Paul Grill, both located on-site, and room service is available for quieter mornings. If your schedule allows, don’t miss the hotel’s afternoon tea service, which includes live piano accompaniment and fills up quickly.

Hotel Ivy — Hotel Ivy strikes a different note entirely. Bright, airy and modern, it feels designed to help guests exhale the moment they walk through the door. High ceilings, oversized windows and thoughtful service create a sense of calm that extends from the lobby into the guest rooms.

The rooms are polished without feeling sterile, featuring plush beds, large bathrooms and spacious showers. On-site amenities include multiple dining options, a bar and a cigar lounge. After a long day of exploring, I enjoyed unwinding with a margarita and snack at Masa & Agave, the hotel’s Mexico City-inspired restaurant.

The standout feature, however, is Anda Spa. My seasonal body treatment included exfoliation, massage and aromatherapy, making it one of the most relaxing experiences of the trip. Arrive early to enjoy the spa facilities, particularly the hydrotherapy pool and lounge spaces, which are worth lingering in before your appointment begins.

Things to do

Abogados Café & Como Park — Start your morning with a coffee — or, in my case, a Chocolate Mexicano — from Abogados Café before heading to nearby Como Park. The drinks are excellent and make a perfect companion for the short walk to the lake.

Built around Como Lake, the park features a walking path that loops the entire shoreline, along with plenty of benches for soaking up the scenery. I found myself returning several times throughout my trip simply because it was such a peaceful place to enjoy the sunshine, water and green space.

Cooks of Crocus Hill Cooking Class — Cooking classes are one of the most underrated travel activities. You learn a new skill, enjoy a great meal and leave with recipes that can transport you back to your trip long after you’ve returned home.

With two Twin Cities locations and classes covering everything from Indian cooking and sushi to sourdough and knife skills, Cooks of Crocus Hill offers plenty of options. I attended the Favorite Indian Dishes class taught by Chef Ria Mathew and was impressed by how smoothly the large group was managed. Divided into smaller groups, we prepared butter chicken, green pea pulao and palak paneer, then sat down to enjoy the meal together. The experience was hands-on, welcoming and surprisingly relaxing.

Woodhouse Spa — If your pre-vacation manicure or pedicure falls victim to a packed schedule, Woodhouse Spa can help. Located at Rosedale Center, the spa offers nail services alongside massages, facials and body treatments in a calm, welcoming setting.

My wife and I enjoyed a gel manicure and the signature Luxury Foot Retreat pedicure, complete with warm neck wraps and beverages. One especially useful touch for travelers: the spa offers quick-drying traditional polishes, making it easier to get back to sightseeing without worrying about smudges.

Nudie Nubies at The Black Hart — I make a point of seeking out burlesque whenever I travel, and Nudie Nubies ‘ performance made for a memorable night. It’s the longest-running amateur burlesque competition in the country, according to organizers, and has called St. Paul home for years.

Held on the second Friday of each month at The Black Hart, the competition showcases performers with fewer than four years of stage experience as they compete for a prize and a spot in the annual showcase round. The venue’s floor-level performance space can make sightlines a little challenging, but the energy more than makes up for it. There’s also a spacious patio if you need a break between acts.

Pro tip: Bring cash for the cover charge, or plan to use the on-site ATM.

With friends

Bolé Ethiopian Cuisine St. Paul – Ethiopian food is always fantastic, but it’s even better when shared with friends. Walking distance from Como Park is one of three locations of Bolé Ethiopian Cuisine, named after the neighborhood where its owners were born and raised. The menu is extensive, including far more than what you’d typically find in Ethiopian restaurants stateside. Start your meal with Crispy Kitfo, an Ethiopian beef tartar spread on crispy injera, a pillowy, slightly sour, fermented flatbread. Scoop endless variety of stews, vegetables (the highlight of any Ethiopian meal in my opinion), meat, and my new favorite, Asa Gulash, tilapia in a berbere sauce with tomatoes, onions, and herbs, with injera for a meal you won’t forget anytime soon. To try a little of a lot, order the tour of Ethiopian, or Tokkumaa, the pride and joy of the restaurant owners, which layers a number of dishes into a mountain to be enjoyed bite by bite.

Whimstay Rental — When traveling with friends, I almost always prefer a short-term rental to a hotel. The extra space, privacy and access to a kitchen make a big difference, especially on longer trips. Whimstay specializes in discounted last-minute vacation rentals, offering deals on properties booked less than 30 days in advance.

We stayed in a renovated two-bedroom home managed by MINNeSTAY that retained much of its historic charm, including beautiful woodwork, a formal dining room and a spacious kitchen. Outside, a backyard with a fire pit, grill and lawn games made it easy to unwind after a day of exploring. The bed and pillows weren’t my favorite, but the rest of the house more than made up for it.

Pro tip: The walkable neighborhood is close to Black Duck Spirits & Hearth and local shops like I Like You and A Bag Lady.

Fogo de Chão — Fogo de Chão is a fun choice for groups and anyone with an appreciation for Brazilian-style churrasco. The experience begins at the expansive Market Table, where salads, vegetables and side dishes serve to complement what’s to come.

Once seated, expect a steady stream of pão de queijo, fried bananas and tableside-carved meats delivered by roaming gaúchos. Standouts from our meal included the flank steak, pork belly, lamb chops and the restaurant’s honey-drizzled grilled cheese.

Service was incredibly slow during our visit on a busy Saturday evening, but once the meats started arriving, things quickly started looking up.

Can Can Wonderland — Can Can Wonderland may be the most fun you can have in the Twin Cities with a single admission ticket. Entry includes unlimited access to more than 150 arcade games spread throughout a sprawling, art-filled space packed with vintage machines and quirky attractions.

Beyond the arcade, visitors can enjoy mini golf, karaoke, themed events and monthly performances like Queer Circus. After 9 p.m. on weekends, the venue shifts to a 21+ atmosphere, making it a popular nightlife destination.

The food and drink offerings lean playful and nostalgic, with cotton candy, popcorn, loaded milkshakes, cocktails, mocktails and plenty of other treats to keep the fun going between games.

Cannabis

Glass Blowing Pipe Class at Legacy Glassworks — If you’re looking for a hands-on activity that’s a little different, Legacy Glassworks offers classes in borosilicate glasswork, including a pipe-making workshop. While I’ve taken traditional glassblowing classes before, this experience felt entirely different. Instead of working with a massive furnace, participants use small torches, making the process feel more approachable and easier to control.

During the class, I learned techniques like making a glass marble and created a one-hitter to take home. The small class size — no more than seven students — allows for plenty of one-on-one instruction, and the patient, encouraging teaching style made the experience enjoyable even for beginners. Legacy Glassworks also offers a variety of other classes for those interested in exploring the craft further.

Rise Dispensary — Located about 10 minutes from Minneapolis-Saint Paul International Airport, Rise is a convenient stop for visitors interested in Minnesota’s legal cannabis market (just watch out for the large pothole in the parking lot). While recreational cannabis sales are still relatively new to the state, Rise brings experience from operating dispensaries across multiple states.

Products range from Dogwalkers mini pre-rolls, ideal for visitors seeking a smaller, portable option, to RYTHM flower sold in larger quantities for those planning a longer stay. The selection is noticeably smaller than what you’ll find in more established cannabis markets, but that’s reflective of Minnesota’s still-evolving industry. Ordering online ahead of time makes pickup quick and straightforward.

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