Matières Fécales Is Your One-Stop Shop for Gothic Couture
Matières Fécales is bringing an undeniably daring spirit to the hallowed halls of Paris Fashion Week. Designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran have made a name for themselves by blending ghoulish beauty with supernatural visual art and drawing the industry to their world with increasing magnetism (they count Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy as their longtime mentors).
Dalton and Bhaskaran met at pattern-cutting school in Montreal over a decade ago and debuted their inaugural runway collection in March. Cut to their sophomore spring/summer 2026 runway collection, presented today at the 17th-century Hôtel d’Évreux, where they solidified their status as one of the hottest shows in town—some guests were moved to tears.
Most people aren’t going to don black contacts and fiercely cinch themselves while teetering on the edge of oblivion in perverse platform Christian Louboutin heels, but many are drawn to the brand’s uncanny allure. (Including Louboutin himself, who was in attendance.) The pair possesses a keen understanding of the provocative potential of classic silhouettes, taking inspiration from fellow renegades like Alexander McQueen. A blush-pink skirt suit, even when its padded proportions are only slightly subverted, still has the power to shock the denizens of Place Vendôme, especially when paired with Dalton’s signature white-out makeup.
This season’s collection, in all of its Gothic glory, also offered a quiet romanticism. A wall of flowers, a ruched tulle suit, a semi-sheer mermaid gown, and a pink tutu dress fit for a prima ballerina possessed all the right ingredients for an old-school salon presentation. It could have been, too, if not for the models’ intentionally uncomfortable walks. But for Matières Fécales, expectations are always turned upside down.
The afterparty was open to the public, and the invite—which the brand shared on Instagram—encouraged guests to express themselves to the fullest, “with no boundaries or limits.” (Cue the disciples of darkness who will surely be lining up out the door.) Yes, Matières Fécales benefits from an active online fanbase that’s quickly transformed from a subculture to a mainstream movement, but the pair still finds success—and community—in otherness.
Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.