Is It a ‘No Mascara Summer?’ Zendaya’s Makeup Artist Weighs In

The beauty internet’s latest obsession is with the work of makeup artist Ernesto Casillas. The Los Angeles-based makeup artist has worked with Jennifer Lopez and Doja Cat, but the heavenly looks that he created on Zendaya’s The Odyssey press tour have been going viral and even kicked off what some are calling “no mascara summer.” At last night’s Los Angeles premiere for Zendaya’s new film, Spider-Man: Brand New Day, the mascara came back in a vampy beauty look featuring a dewy, smoked-out eye. ELLE caught up with Casillas to discuss behind-the-scenes photos of the look, how supermodels served as inspiration, and his thoughts on “method dressing” for beauty.

Some describe Zendaya’s press tour looks as method dressing. How would you describe the approach you take for beauty? Is it “method beauty”?

Every beauty look we’ve done is directly inspired by the dress. We like to tie in a color, a texture, or sometimes even the absence of color inspires us to play with color on the eyes. We try not to do things too literally, but more as a nod to the theme.

For last night’s look, what sort of references and inspiration did you, Zendaya, and the team discuss?

It’s a collaborative process in which we all come to the table with ideas. We’ve previously done a darker smoky eye, but not like this. We wanted to continue the darker vibe with this dress, but in a more 2000s runway supermodel way—super blown-out and a diffused smoky eye with contours.

What are the key techniques to this look?

To build this eye, you want to start with a great jet-black eyeliner that’s creamy and going to stay put. I used the Pradalines Durable Gliding Eye Pencil in Nero all around her eye and blended out using an eye shadow. From there, you build using medium-toned shadows and gradually add the darkest one.

We just had a heat wave. Any tips for keeping your makeup heatproof?

The less product you wear, the better. Opt for a matte foundation and really buff it in.

Some are calling this a “No Mascara Summer,” particularly after your The Odyssey beauty looks. What do you think of that?

Everyone should do what they’re comfortable with; rules are silly. I do think it’s a great way to focus on skin and give the eyes a break. I love a sun-kissed blushy moment; I’ve particularly been using the Prada Touch Blush in Cherry a lot lately.

How would you say the vibe of the makeup for the Spider-Man tour is different from The Odyssey?

The mood for Spider-Man is a lot darker, with emphasis on the eyes and sculpted skin. The Odyssey was lighter and ethereal.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.