The Breakout Emerging Designers of Paris Fashion Week

The spring/summer 2027 fashion month has officially wrapped. It’s certainly been an interesting season, with ample trends and covetable accessories seen from New York to Milan. Paris ended with big names, designer comebacks, over-the-top maximalist displays, and celebratory superfans. Plus, its own slew of very memorable emerging designers. Read on for six rising new names to know.

Fidan Novruzova

Founded in 2020, Fidan Novruzova is known for her unique silhouettes and daring details. Think: dresses with ultra-rounded shoulders with big buttons, skirts with oversized pleats and sporty contrasting panels in vivid colors. Also don’t miss the intricate, standout, surreal leather handbags with multiple repeating clasps and motifs. The label presented its Mira bag with a mirror set into the top, inspired by the collection theme, which was an exploration of vanity.

Chloë Sevigny, Paloma Elsesser, and Solange are all fans of the brand, and she was also named a semifinalist for the LVMH Prize in 2024. For the new season, Fidan hosted her presentation at an art gallery in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. She took inspiration from the opulent shapes of the 1930s and 1980s and old Parisian shop displays to create swooping dramatic collars and chic dresses that had an air of another time period.

Jenny Fax

No brand captures the dark, awkward moments of girlhood quite like Jenny Fax. The Tokyo-based fashion label was officially launched in 2011 by Taiwanese designer Jen-Fang Shueh. The Central Saint Martins alum only recently started showing during the Paris Fashion Week schedule in the past few years, which has given the emerging designer more of a platform to expand her unusual constructions, frilly yet ironic looks, and deeply different POV.

“I may not go out on the streets to speak up for feminism,” Shueh told ELLE earlier this year. “But using details like putting underwear on the head is my own quiet way of expressing it…I want to gently remind girls to be brave in their daily lives.” Her latest collection shown in Paris, titled “Just don’t be happy, don’t be happy”, was full of unconventional silhouettes and motifs like crosses and cute cartoons.

August Barron

Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of August Barron (formerly known as All-In) started their foray into fashion with their editorial magazine before launching their first commercial fashion collection in 2019. Now, they’ve become a cult, under-the-radar favorite at Paris Fashion Week for their fun and buzzy collections that merge performance art with upcycling, and always layered high-impact styling. Alexa Chung and Anya Taylor-Joy are fans.

For spring/summer 2027, the duo had their cadre of models walk under a disco ball on a raised runway inside the historic nightlife venue, La Cigale, with the theme of Walk of Fame in mind, pulling from fame-tinged films like Sunset Boulevard, Boogie Nights, They Shoot Horses, Don’t They?, and All That Jazz. They gave us a new version of Hollywood fame queens, dressed up in modified 1950s Playboy Bunny suits, ’70s stripper heels, and campy ’70s prints.

Abra

Always inspired by whimsy and nostalgia, Abra is the Paris-based Spanish brand founded in 2020 by designer Abraham Ortuño Perez. The label is one to watch in particular for its accessories, like the eccentric bags and shoes. Perez has a history of creating iconic, viral shoes; he’s actually the designer behind Loewe’s broken eggs sandals and Jacquemus’s double-stacked kitten heels.

For spring/summer 2027, Abra sent models down the runway wearing trompe l’oeil campy psychedelic slip dresses, adorable flower hats, shoe headpieces, and dresses designed to look like they were made out of leaves. Abra took inspiration from the tiny world of Arrietty and the magic of Alice in Wonderland.

De Pino

Gabriel Figueiredo started De Pino in 2020 after graduating with a master’s degree in fashion design from La Cambre in Brussels, Belgium, in 2017. His work is nicely referential of the designers he grew up admiring, including Martin Margiela. It also combines his own background of working with stylists including Georgia Pendlebury and Camille Bidault-Waddington before working in-house at Maison Margiela and later in the embroidery department at Dior.

De Pino’s spring/summer 2027 lineup was full of asymmetrical silhouettes and 2008-fueled codes that raised him, from American Apparel to the personal style of French stylist and editor Carine Roitfeld in the early aughts.

Leawald

Slow fashion label Leawald, founded by Lea Waldberg, hosted its debut show off-schedule this season in Paris, too. With a background in creating stage costumes and styling, her line is full of theatrical and surreal details, even when it comes down to sweatpants or more casually leaning satin effect looks.

Waldberg dubbed her collection “Pop Mutation” and gave us neon pink skirts with fringe that looked like hair, micro-cropped tops with ruffles that mimicked sleeping eye masks, and funky graphic tees with chunky spiked collar necklaces.