Matthieu Blazy Brings Chanel Back to Biarritz for His First Cruise Show

2 min read

Matthieu Blazy represents the new guard at Chanel, yes—but for his debut resort show this afternoon, he returned to old territory. In the seaside town of Biarritz, Blazy presented Chanel’s resort 2027 collection at the Le Casino Municipal, just steps from where Gabrielle Chanel established her first couture house in 1915. But with Blazy’s fresh perspective and a star-studded front row—including a flap bag-toting A$AP Rocky, Nicole Kidman, Tilda Swinton, and Michaela Coel—the collection was anything but stuck in the past.

Although it wouldn’t be until 1926 that Chanel created the little black dress, a garment known as her “Ford,” Blazy offered his own interpretation for the show’s opening look. Inspired by an archival sketch, the French-Belgian designer showed a slinky drop-waist number embroidered with linear, Art Deco-style piping. A black bow, originally positioned on the back of the dress, came into full view in the form of an oversized evening clutch.

Many of the signatures Blazy has established thus far at Chanel were present. Louche pantsuits, simple Basque stripe jumpers styled with elaborate ball skirts, his now-famous It shoes, this time shown in candy-colored hues. But there was an unmistakable seaside current running through it all.

Trimmed jersey rompers evoked 20th-century beachwear, while playful swim caps had models appearing as though they had stepped out of Pablo Picasso’s “Bathers,” which he created while vacationing in Biarritz. A woven top coat featured a scenic beachscape and “Biarritz” written along one side. The location-specific pieces appear to be a Blazy signature—he debuted the idea for his 2026 Métiers d’art show in New York City.

Accessories continued to be a highlight. Extra-large totes, fishnet coverups, and “barefoot” heels are all items destined for the shores of France’s Basque coast in due time. Across fit-and-flare maxidresses and the closing looks that shimmered in fish-scale paillettes, the collection threaded Chanel’s couture sensibility through the pared-back elegance of Biarritz.

“Two years ago I came to Biarritz,” Blazy said backstage following the show. “I was going to the lighthouse, there was this extraordinary mural depicting two mermaids and a boat. For me it was a wonderful starting point.”

Since his debut show, Blazy has approached the Chanel codes with reverence, all while subtly disrupting them with a modern hand. In Biarritz today, it was a homecoming, though recalibrated for a new generation of Chanel women.

Matthew Velasco is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. Based in New York City, he previously worked as a News Writer at W magazine and an Assistant Editor at V magazine. Outside of fashion, he enjoys interior design, tennis (both watching and playing), and a jam-packed antique store.