The pleasure of eating in Indianapolis
Indianapolis has a way of surprising you. It’s the kind of Midwestern city that rewards lingering — where the food scene punches far above its weight, strangers are genuinely kind, and nature quietly weaves its way through downtown life. It works just as well for a long weekend as it does for a slow, exploratory week.
My wife and I discovered this on our very first visit, when we got married in the backyard of a cottage tucked along the banks of the White River. It was one of those trips that imprints itself on you — intimate, unexpected and immediately beloved. We’ve returned several times since, so when our fifth wedding anniversary rolled around, I quietly teamed up with Visit Indy to plan a surprise return.
Over a leisurely week, we leaned all the way in: washing elephants at the Indianapolis Zoo, eating our way through the city’s restaurants, and spending long stretches on and in the White River — by gondola, kayak, and even with a fishing pole in hand. It was the kind of trip that settles into your bones, the sort you know you’ll be reminiscing about years from now.
Because this visit was longer and more daytime activity-packed than our usual travel style, I opted for a car instead of relying solely on rideshares — a decision that made moving between neighborhoods and riverfront adventures far easier. I used Turo, a peer-to-peer car rental platform that lets you choose a specific vehicle (often with drop-off and pickup included), and we spent a few comfortable days exploring Indianapolis and its suburbs in a 2025 Kia Seltos.
Here’s what we did and thoughts on where to stay and what to eat.
Where to Stay
Ironworks Hotel – The Ironworks Hotel is absolutely stunning and makes for a memorable stay. One of only two Michelin Key hotels in Indianapolis, it’s about 20 miles from downtown. The hotel decor is industrial, and certainly luxurious, with exposed pipes, dark teal walls, weathered wood, brass, brick and leather, spacious rooms and generously sized bathrooms. The bed is comfortable, the rooms are well-appointed and the showers deliver great water pressure.
Customer service makes a big difference at boutique hotels and major chains alike, and Ironworks does a fantastic job in this department, with excellent service at every level and interaction. As an added perk, parking is free and plentiful. Ironworks has two restaurants on the property: Provision, where you can enjoy steaks and seafood, soups, and salads for dinner, and Rize, a breakfast/lunch restaurant on the main floor with all the classics.
JW Marriott – Conveniently located near everything downtown Indianapolis has to offer, the JW Marriott is a comfortable home base with beautiful views of the city and the White River. We loved how easy it was to walk everywhere. The hotel is connected with a skyway to the Indiana Convention Center and Lucas Oil Stadium. Walk into a huge lobby where you’ll immediately be greeted and assisted by friendly staff and directed to your room. There are 1,013 spacious guest rooms, many with floor-to-ceiling windows and comfortable beds. In addition to the complex’s multiple food options, Dean’s Steak & Seafood recently opened, offering a menu that includes a raw bar, Japanese wagyu and all the steakhouse classics you’d expect.
What to Do
Loudmouth Books – Founded in 2023 by Leah Johnson, the award-winning author of “You Should See Me in a Crown,” Loudmouth Books is more than a bookstore — it’s a deliberate act of care and resistance. The shop is devoted to highlighting banned books and uplifting marginalized authors, all from an inviting, thoughtfully designed space that practically insists you linger. Alongside its shelves, you’ll find gifts, community programming, and the unmistakable feeling that this is a place built with intention.
Johnson was inspired to open Loudmouth Books by her mother, Indiana State Representative Renee Pack, who campaigned against HB 1447 — a book-banning bill that ultimately became law in 2023. Today, Loudmouth Books carries more than 2,000 titles by, for, and about marginalized authors, spanning genres from children’s literature and cookbooks to fiction, poetry, romance, sci-fi, and graphic novels. It’s the kind of place where every reader can find themselves — or discover a voice they didn’t know they were missing.
(Jodyann Morgan) The view on the White River
Potter’s Bridge River Tube Trip – A few days after we got married back in 2020, we rented tubes from the White River Canoe Company and floated down the river. We had such an incredible time (despite having to climb out of the river, sopping wet, into a hardware store parking lot) that I knew we had to do it again. Thankfully, no climbing required this time, just a relaxed float under the shining sun. We drifted peacefully, watched the birds and turtles while enjoying the snacks and drinks we brought along. Tubing is truly a wonderful way to relax deeply and soak up the sun and surrounding nature.
Old World Gondoliers – Did you know that Indianapolis not only has a canal with beautiful views, but also Gondola Rides? Not only are the gondolas imported from Italy, but the gondoliers are professionally trained singers who travel to Italy to learn the craft. Old World Gondoliers offer both public and private gondola rides, allowing guests with different budgets to enjoy the experience. It is very romantic! Stop by Fresco Italian Cafe and grab an Italian ice to enjoy while on the canal. They’re very refreshing and available with optional alcohol.
(Jodyann Morgan) After watching the elephant at the Indianapolis Zoo
Indianapolis Zoo – My wife and I met at the circus when they last toured with elephants. Since then, elephants have been a beloved symbol of our nearly decade-long relationship. I even have an elephant tattoo! When I learned that the Indianapolis Zoo offered an elephant bathing experience, we had to do it. The dedicated staff introduced us to the elephant we’d be bathing, allowing us to each scrub a quarter of the animal before rinsing clean. There was ample opportunity to take photos, touch the majestic animal and ask many questions. It was a magical experience.
Flower Boys – I love to learn new skills when we’re traveling, and this trip was no different. Flower Boys offers workshops where you can learn how to arrange flowers. Held at the beautiful 8th Day Distillery, our instructor carefully walked us through how to turn beautiful flowers into a carefully crafted bouquet in a provided vase. It’s a lot easier than you’d think, but the tips and instructions are really what turn the final product into art. The atmosphere was relaxed, the experience was engaging, and the space it was hosted in was beautiful.
Frank’s Paddlesports Livery – The White River has been going through a significant cleanup in an effort to allow residents to enjoy its magnificence. Frank’s Paddlesport Livery is the first recreational kayaking, canoeing, and stand-up paddleboard operator to open downtown, thanks to the cleanup effort. We chose a tandem canoe and paddled our way up and down the river, watching the wildlife and soaking up the sun. Next time we’ll probably go with separate canoes. It was a lovely way to spend a summer morning.
Go Fishin’ with Clint – I love fishing, but almost always do it from a boat, fishing for the likes of salmon and trout. But in Indianapolis, you can fish in the White River, and fish we did! Clint, a local fishing guide, came prepared with all the gear we needed and the patience of a saint. He walked us through how to use the fishing poles, joined us in the river when we suggested it (I later learned that it might not have been the right choice, but we had a great time), and helped us untangle and unhook our lines countless times. It was a blast and something I’ll definitely be doing the next time I’m in the area.
Wild Eye Dab Lounge – We swung by Wild Eye Dab Lounge more than once during our trip, thanks to their two convenient locations, one on Mass Ave and the other in Fountain Square. I’d never done dabs before, so naturally, I had a million questions, and they graciously answered every single one. In addition to a selection of dabs, Wild Eye Dab Lounge offers a chef-driven mocktail menu, with beverages available both infused and not. These mocktails were seriously delicious; my favorite was “In the Weeds,” a cherry-chocolate cold brew. Whether you stop by for a quick pick-me-up or relax for a few hours, it’s worth a visit (or two).
(Chaya Milchtein) Wearing robes that fit at the Conrad Spa
Conrad Spa – Finding a luxurious spa that offers excellent services and has robes that fit? That’s a dream come true. The Conrad Spa certainly delivers on all counts, with beautiful facilities, including access to a pool and hot tub, a relaxation room, as well as a steam room and sauna. Their services include massages, facials, body treatments, and salon services such as manicures and pedicures. Morgan and I celebrated our anniversary with relaxing couples massages side by side. We each received an enhancement: I enjoyed the dry exfoliation, while my wife opted for hot stones, one of her favorite add-ons.
Where to Eat
Vida – Walking up to Vida, you’re welcomed by the glow of a fireplace and an inviting stretch of outdoor seating — an early hint at the care that defines the experience inside. Once seated, the hospitality sets the tone immediately, attentive and warm without ever feeling performative. Vida offers a four-course prix fixe menu, with the option to select one dish from each course, as well as a seven-course tasting menu; both can be enjoyed in vegetarian form. It was, without question, the best meal we had in Indianapolis.
We opted for the tasting menu, which shifts with the seasons and showcases the kitchen at its most expressive. A first course of kampachi arrived dressed with arctic char roe, ground cherry, serrano, ponzu, and cucumber — buttery and delicate, with a bright, precise balance that lingered just long enough. Next came a Hokkaido scallop paired with grilled corn, saffron, and pork belly, a dish that felt unmistakably summery: rich, sweet, and sunlit. The bread course was delicious, with a slightly sweet, savory banana bread of sorts that had my wife dreaming of devouring it with coffee for breakfast (our server graciously packed some to go after hearing Morgan rave about it).
His Place Eatery – His Place Eatery is a soul food and BBQ restaurant with two locations in Indianapolis. The Southern-fried chicken they’re known for was oh-so-crispy and perfectly seasoned, but honestly, everything was delicious. We feasted on smoked pork belly, which was fatty and fork-tender, smoked brisket, baked beans, and, of course, candied sweet potato with plenty of butter, cinnamon, and sugar. The menu is extensive, so take a few minutes to peruse before ordering. But no matter what you do, definitely end your meal with some cobbler, or take it to go if the food gets the best of you.
(Jodyann Morgan) Crab cakes and burrata at Iozzo’s Garden of Italy
Iozzo’s Garden of Italy – Stepping into Iozzo’s is like stepping back in time. Pressed white tablecloths, old photos covering the walls, and kind, thoughtful customer service. The restaurant was Indianapolis’s first full-service Italian restaurant when it originally opened in 1930 (it reopened in 2009 with the same recipes). There’s an urban outdoor seating area, which we enjoyed during our visit, that is more relaxed than the main dining room. The Italian-American menu offers a wide selection, from handmade pasta to classics like Piccata and Marsala, plus plenty of antipasti, Italian Wedding Soup, and more. The crab cakes were our best bite, filled with loads of lump crab meat served with a horseradish cream sauce.
Borage – The breakfast menu at Borage Cafe, Bakery, and Market in Speedway is lovely and extensive. From breakfast sandwiches and pancakes with all kinds of options to an all-day breakfast plate with maple fennel breakfast sausage, bean salad, and pimento grilled cheese with a sunny-side-up egg, there’s something for every kind of morning on the menu.
The seasonal Sweet Corn Miso Latte caught my eye, and boy, did it deliver! It’s an espresso latte with miso corn syrup, cayenne, and salt, for a creamy drink with depth and a hint of a kick. Delicious! Borage is just a mile and a half from the newly renovated Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum, which you should definitely visit if you’re in the area.
Hasuno – Sushi is a must anywhere we travel, and Hasuno came highly recommended. From the moment we sat down, it was clear it was a beloved neighborhood spot. We started with wasabi shumai filled with pork and cabbage, and enough wasabi to bring a huge smile to my face. Thick slices of salmon sashimi followed, fatty, delicious goodness that we quickly devoured. Sweet shrimp sashimi was served with their heads fried alongside.
I usually prefer my sushi with minimal sauce and fuss, but I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed the cherry blossom roll. It was filled with spicy tuna, cilantro, and jalapeño, topped with more tuna, sauce, and tobiko, and it was excellent! Hasuno also has quite a selection of whiskey, if you’re a casual drinker or a connoisseur.
Anthony’s Chophouse – We celebrated five years married at Anthony’s Chophouse, a two-floor classic steakhouse in Carmel. The menu, containing the usual suspects and some interesting twists on them, is delicious, and the service takes the whole experience up a few notches. We started with a few appetizers, including Fischer-Farms Bacon, sweet and slightly spiced hunks of pork belly, glazed and absolutely indulgent. The presentations were all thoughtful, without being over the top or just focused on an Instagrammable moment.
I usually order a ribeye at similar restaurants, but our server highly recommended the filet mignon flight, which was positively decadent. It was a sampling of USDA Prime, grass-fed, and Australian Wagyu, topped with bone marrow butter tableside, and served with shoestring fries. Before your steak is served, you’ll be offered a choice of knives to dine with, a really cool way to involve us in the process. We chose roasted mushrooms and shallots to accompany the steak, which were excellent as well.
Blue Sushi Sake Grill – Ironworks is surrounded by restaurants, salons, gyms and activities in a recently developed shopping area. Blue Sushi Sake Grill is one of those establishments, and makes for a great pit stop during your downtime. Definitely get the spicy edamame, with garlic, tamari, and togarashi; it was one of the best veggies we enjoyed on the whole trip.
I didn’t love the way they cook the rice, it’s almost gluey, but I’m particular, let’s be honest. This “problem” had a wonderful solution, a beautiful, super fresh, and delicious sashimi platter that Morgan and I absolutely devoured. They offer a wide selection of fish and seafood, along with a daily happy hour with great deals.
Blue Sushi is also on the inKind dining rewards app, which gives you 20% back in credits when dining at participating restaurants, redeemable for future meals. I’d never heard of inKind before, but there are plenty of restaurants in my area on the app, too! Best of all, you get $25 off your first meal when you spend $50 after signing up.
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