Norma Kamali on the Career Detour That Changed Everything

In ELLE’s monthly series Office Hours, we ask people in powerful positions to take us through their first jobs, worst jobs, and everything in between. This month, we spoke with Norma Kamali, whose influence on the fashion industry spans more than five decades. Ahead of her latest launch, the NORMAKAMALIFESTYLE Collection, we caught up with the iconic designer to dive into her incredible career journey—from how she got her start in the business to the reason why tariffs lead to her new line.

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My first job

I worked for Northwestern Airlines. I had no office skills, and I don’t know how I got the job, but I did. I worked there for four years—this was the mid ’60s—and I traveled round-trip to London for $29 every weekend. And London could not have been more spectacular than [during] that period of time. I knew everybody—everybody that was an up-and-coming rock star. I had a double life because I was there every weekend, and then I’d come home, and I’d be sitting at the airline, and my skirts kept getting shorter and shorter. They kept sending me home. Back then, you didn’t go places unless your knees were covered. I mean, cars would screech to a halt when they saw me. Then, of course, every one of my friends wanted [what I was wearing], so I started bringing back clothes for them, and then I opened a store. And that’s how I started in business, selling the clothes that I found in London in the early ’60s.

My worst job

Well, I’ve only had that job and my job. I’ve had the same job for 58 years.

On divine intervention

I graduated from FIT with [the] hope of working as a fashion illustrator. I studied anatomy, and I was very into drawing and painting. I really wanted to be a painter. When I graduated, I got an interview, and it was a disaster. It was the most objectifying experience of my life. And I remember leaving the garment district crying, [feeling] humiliated and embarrassed. And I didn’t get the job. But I believe the universe was stopping me from going down a path that I shouldn’t have been on, pushing me in another direction. You have to live those experiences, so that you go where you’re supposed to go. From there, I went to work at the airline. Can you imagine if I had gotten that job? I mean, working with that man and being at place like that…are you kidding? While it was happening, it was horrible. And that’s happened over and over again in my life.

The best career advice I’ve ever received

I’ve received a lot of good advice. And I think the best part of it is that if you ask for it, people are very generous about giving advice. I found that if you really ask, people want to give good advice. If you want to know something, who are the people you think really are wise in this area? Just call them and ask them.

The biggest lesson I’ve learned through it all

If you don’t tell your story, and you don’t talk about what you need, nobody can help you. Storytelling is critical. And you have to figure out how much you really love what you do and how much you want it.

My proudest career moment

You have to believe it hasn’t happened yet. You know what I mean? Because if you think you had your proudest moment, then that’s you reaching your peak. I would like to have an extraordinarily proud moment or two or three, but I don’t think I’ve had the most proud [moment] yet.

Why I decided to launch my new line, NORMAKAMALILIFESTYLE

I have to be authentic to my brand. I’m a contemporary designer with a contemporary price range. The lower end of it is where a lot of young girls who love to buy clothes come to my brand. And with these tariffs, I have to raise prices like everybody else. But I don’t want to lose [that young, budget-conscious customer]—I don’t want to lose her because she grows up and stays with us and grows with the collections. I freaked out about losing this girl because she’s valuable. She’s great for the brand. So I contacted my factories and said, “I want to do a collection under $200. I want it to be purely a lifestyle collection that you can do anything with. I want them to be easy to wear, but you’re going to have to help me with the pricing.”

And then I worked very carefully with my financial people. How can we reduce the margin but still be profitable? In three and a half months, I put this collection together. I really want my girl to know about it because I did this for her. That’s my job as a designer, as the person who owns a business, and also as a woman who thinks about people with budgets. I live my life similar to every other woman. It’s really important for me to make things that don’t make people feel bad about spending more money than they can afford. That’s why all of my clothes are washable; they don’t require dry cleaning. I’m thinking like a real person in the real world, but I want my clothes to be entertaining for my customers also. There are really cool outfits in there no matter what your budget is.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.