Gabriela Hearst Is Still on Team Uruguay

“How wonderful! It’s all women. We’re going to do a great job.” Gabriela Hearst (born in Paysandú in 1976)’s first words upon meeting the ELLE Spain team—which is indeed made up entirely of women—are revealing: the Uruguayan designer, one of the biggest names in luxury fashion, adores and values female talent. And she welcomed us to her studio in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood to give us an exclusive look at one of the most exciting projects of her career, which also marks her entry into a completely new territory. The former creative director of Chloé from 2020 to 2023, who simultaneously led her eponymous brand founded in 2015, was chosen to design the uniforms for the Uruguayan national soccer team for the FIFA World Cup 2026, held from June 11 to July 19 across Canada, the U.S., and Mexico. And on this adventure—“I love exploring new paths,” she says—she has been joined by another inspiring female leader: Victoria Díaz, executive director of the Uruguayan Football Association (AUF) and a major supporter of Hearst’s selection.

Two professionals from very different backgrounds, united forever by football and their love for their country—so much so that they wanted to present this project to us together. “We met on WhatsApp,” the designer recalls with a laugh. “Ignacio Alonso, president of the AUF, put us in touch in December to see if the proposal was viable.” Díaz had already been following the designer “from before you were Gabriela Hearst,” she says knowingly, referring to her first brand, Candela, founded in 2004 in New York with two partners, one of whom, Austin Hearst, is now her husband. “We wouldn’t be here without her. She had to convince a lot of men that it was a good idea,” the designer adds gratefully. “Before this exciting experience, I liked football, but I wasn’t a die-hard fan. Now I know all the players, and of course, team Uruguay all the way!” she says, laughing. And she adds that in her country, this sport “is like a religion—something beautiful because it brings people together. And anything that connects people is so necessary in today’s world.”

Díaz, who competed for more than 15 years on Uruguay’s national fencing team, highlights that this initiative brings together two areas of national pride: football and fashion. She echoes her colleague’s reflection: “In Uruguay, studies show that people are more interested in football than in politics. And stadiums are the only place where all social classes, religions, ways of thinking, and age groups come together…It’s the most democratic place that exists.”

The uniforms designed by Gabriela Hearst are not only aesthetically refined but are also made from Uruguayan merino wool, another symbol of this small South American nation. “It’s incredibly meaningful to represent my country with such a native material; it’s something that should be exported to the world. Before polyester and cotton took over, sportswear was made from wool. Our players and officials needed uniforms that are elegant but also breathable, because it’s very hot. And there’s nothing better than wool from northern Uruguay—everyone should know that,” she explains proudly, as a pioneer in sustainable luxury fashion. “Some people might break into a sweat just imagining our boys dressed in wool in Miami,” she jokes. But she insists: “It’s a very lightweight jacquard fabric, and each made-to-measure suit will be personalized with the player’s name and the Uruguayan crest.”

It’s hard to imagine two better ambassadors for Uruguay’s values at the world’s biggest football event. “Living in the U.S. and traveling so much, I realize Uruguay has a quality, authenticity, warmth, and simplicity that deserve to be better known. Years ago, people didn’t even know where it was on the map, and now it’s recognized through football.”

“And because our players generally behave well,” Díaz adds. “The other day in Paris, an Uber driver asked me where I was from. ‘Uruguay? Oh, Cavani!’ he said. Because Edinson Cavani is a good person, and that’s a trait of our footballers.”

Used to working with actresses, celebrities, singers, dancers…how was it for Gabriela to work with athletes? “We had just come from the Paris show, the Oscars, dressing Chloé Zhao for her film Hamnet… And suddenly we had a new mission: two days to fit 40 people, from executives and players,” she recalls, still visibly excited. “I have a small team, but we’re very coordinated and connected, so it was easy.”

“The guys were thrilled to try on the suits,” Victoria adds. “Footballers really love clothes, but not so much trying them on,” she laughs. “They were drinking mate [a traditional South American beverage], chatting, checking each other out…some didn’t even want to take the suit off.” The designer admits she was pleasantly surprised to meet “such kind, well-mannered, elegant young men…they have the humility of true greatness.”

Suddenly, Gabriela’s phone rings. “Sorry, I have to take this; it’s my daughter. ‘I’m not ghosting you; I’m doing a photo shoot. I’ll call you later, I love you.’ They’re deciding which university to go to,” she says of her 17-year-old twins, Mía and Olivia. Jack, the youngest, was born in 2015. “Having a teenage daughter is like having a toxic boyfriend,” she jokes. “If she calls, you have to drop everything, otherwise she accuses you of ghosting her.” Victoria, also a mother of teenagers, agrees: “And you can call them 20 times and they won’t pick up,” she laughs. “Women have to take care of so much,” reflects the designer. Díaz adds: “At the Federation, I’m the one organizing, managing, putting out fires; checking if someone’s upset or has a problem. … We have that ability to care; we do things differently. And when facing adversity, we tend to be braver and try to solve things while considering how others feel.”

“I have a theory—my ‘Gaby theory,’” Hearst says with humor, “which suggests that men, because of how they were raised, feel more comfortable doing business when there’s another man in front of them. And it’s been proven that countries that support women perform better economically. When a woman rises, she lifts an entire community. The archaeologist Marija Gimbutas, whom I recommend reading, argues that when women held power, societies functioned well. In prehistory, we were revered; we led organization and agriculture. We were fertility goddesses. Later, when people began to control nature, they also began to control women. I only encountered sexism once I became successful, hearing comments from men who would have preferred me to stay quiet.”

The conversation inevitably turns to the concept of female leadership. Here are two trailblazing women in fields still largely dominated by men. “Leadership is about inspiring and contributing. You don’t need to be a boss to be a leader; it’s about managing processes and helping others do things well from wherever you are. And setting an example,” Díaz explains. For the designer, it’s “about inspiring people; being responsible for the energy you bring into the office, even when you have a thousand personal problems. My team is also my family.”

They also highlight the strong moment Latin talent, especially female talent, is experiencing globally. “People all over the world understand the values that unite us: family, food, music, the ability to enjoy and feel, the language… and the poncho! It’s the garment that unites the entire continent,” she adds with a smile. Hearst insists: “We all have a soul, no matter where we come from. We come from a culture that has suffered but knows how to overcome obstacles. Color and joy always prevail.” And to finish, a wish: “That the most sensual and sophisticated players at the World Cup are ours. That people say, ‘Wow! Who are they?’” Díaz says playfully. “My designs aim the person to shine more than the clothes themselves. They’re going to look like James Bond,” the designer adds with a laugh. Though they didn’t win on the pitch, when it comes to elegance and cool, no one beat Uruguay.

Syndicated from ELLE Spain. This story has been lightly edited and condensed for clarity.