ELLE Escapes: Dubrovnik

Despite a flood of tourists in recent years, Croatian hot spot Dubrovnik is absolutely worth spending your flight miles on. Often called “the Pearl of the Adriatic,” this coastal southern European city has so much to offer—from its imposing, sea-kissed fortress walls and palatial architecture seen on Game of Thrones to its rich history and award-winning food and wine. In fact, this medieval, cliffside marvel has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site for over four decades, and was beautifully restored in the aftermath of the Croatian War of Independence in the ’90s.

Like the rest of the country, Dubrovnik is a melting pot of Italian and Balkan cultural influences—yet it still has its own unique identity. I began my 11-day Croatian tour there, followed by a visit to the small island of Korčula and major port city Split. And while I was only in Dubrovnik for two days—a reasonable amount of time to see the city’s main sites—I could have easily stayed there longer, since it was undoubtedly my favorite spot that I visited on my trip. Ahead, your full scoop on what to see, eat, drink and where to stay.

What to See

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Rector’s Palace

Stradun, or the main street in Dubrovnik, is where you’ll find many key historic monuments, including St. Blaise’s Catholic Church, dedicated to the patron saint of Dubrovnik; Church of St. Ignatius, which houses the city’s oldest bell erected in 1355; and two monasteries also dating back to the 14th century. But, in my opinion, no tour of the Old Town would be complete without a visit to Rector’s Palace. Located in the heart of the city in Luza Square, this Gothic-Renaissance structure was built in the 15th century as the official residence of the city’s rectors—who each served as the leader of the Republic of Dubrovnik for one-month terms. Today, the site houses the city’s Cultural Museum, which features over 10,000 artifacts ranging from furniture to fashion, artwork, coins, and armory from the 14th to 20th centuries. Spend an afternoon browsing the impressive collections and wandering the historic halls, and make sure to stop by the palace’s picturesque courtyard for some seriously stunning photo ops. (FYI, Games of Thrones fans may recognize this museum as the Spice King’s Palace.) While entry to this particular site isn’t free, you can purchase a single ticket for 15 euros or buy a Dubrovnik Pass, which includes access to this museum and a handful of others in area starting at 35 euros for the day.

Mount Srđ

As iconic as it may be, walking the Old Town walls is one of the busiest and most expensive attractions in Dubrovnik. Instead, you can hike up to Mount Srđ for free to enjoy an even more spectacular outlook without all the long lines. (You can also reach the peak by cable car, but a round-trip ride will set you back 27 euros). The head of the trail, called Staza Prema Utvrdi Imperial, is about a 20-minute walk from the main entrance of the Old Town, and once you get started, the hike is moderately challenging. You’ll definitely work up a sweat while climbing the cobblestone switchbacks, but the breathtaking panoramic views at the top make the trek absolutely worth it. Plus, the peak even has a few attractions, including a large fortress, a massive stone cross, the Homeland War Museum, and a dreamy restaurant. Word to the wise: Leave at least three hours for the journey so you can make it all the way to the top, spend some time there, and leisurely walk back down to the City Gates.

Elaphiti Islands

If you’re looking to escape the crowds of the Old Town, I highly recommend visiting the Elaphitis for a day. This cluster of 14 islands is situated just northwest of Dubrovnik, with the three largest islets—Koločep, Lopud, and Šipan—currently being the only permanently inhabited. I signed up for a snorkel tour embarking from the Old Town harbor for about 60 euros, which began by stopping at Croatia’s famous blue and green sea caves off the remote islands of Biševo and Ravnik. During certain times of day, sunlight will creep through the cave walls and bounce off the white seabeds, giving the water an enchanting, iridescent effect. Finally, we enjoyed a few hours at Lopud’s beautiful Sunj Beach, one of the most beloved and only sandy beaches on the Elaphiti Islands. While I chose to relax shoreside and splash in the shallow waters during my time there, you can also hike up to the town to explore an old ruined fortress and Franciscan monastery. Alternatively, sommeliers and foodies may prefer to venture to Šipan, known for its verdant vineyards and olive groves. Or, if you’re seeking the ultimate tranquil getaway, consider heading to Koločep, the smallest, lushest, and most serene of the three islands.

Where to Eat

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Restaurant Pjerin

Hotel restaurants can get a bad rap for having lackluster menus and sub-par atmospheres, but Restaurant Pjerin—located inside the gorgeous Villa Dubrovnik hotel—is certainly an exception. This Michelin-recommended eatery offers exquisite Mediterranean dishes and is the epitome of “quiet luxury,” featuring soft, minimalist, neutral décor set against absolutely mesmerizing views of the turquoise-tinged Adriatic. I went for a stunning sunset dinner on the restaurant’s spacious terrace and ordered the delicately rolled lobster pasta and chocolate cake with pistachio gelato for dessert. To start, patrons were also treated to a complimentary selection of seasonal breads and hors d’oeuvres—which included a mouth-watering sea bass tartare, crispy fish balls, and a refreshing green gazpacho made with avocado and black pepper. Each dish was presented so artfully that when my waiter brought out the restaurant’s (also complimentary) tasting of chocolate truffles at the end of my meal, I did, indeed, nearly shed a tear.

Wanda

Dubrovnik admittedly isn’t an inexpensive European city to visit, so for anyone seeking quality dining options on a budget, I recommend Wanda. Spearheaded by former Los Angeles restauranteur and Dubrovnik-native Goran Starčić, this quaint joint on Prijeko street serves up an array of simple, affordable, and tasty Mediterranean classics—think icons like squid ink risotto and spaghetti alle vongole, all made with locally-sourced ingredients. (I had the latter and can confirm it was delicious). You can also expect fast service and a relaxing ambiance, complete with a lovely outdoor seating area protected from all the hustle and bustle.

Restaurant 360

Ask any local for Dubrovnik restaurant recommendations, and they’ll likely point you to 360. The Michelin-starred restaurant is popular for its five-course tasting menus and gourmet à la carte options delivering fresh spins on traditional Mediterranean and Croatian dishes. With its swanky dining room flanking the harbor, meticulously plated menu, and thoughtful wine pairings, 360 should certainly be on your itinerary. Just note the restaurant is only open for dinner, and it’s wise to make a reservation, as this place books up quickly.

Where to Drink

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Buža Bar

Tourists flock to this bar built into the cliffs not only to enjoy a refreshing libation, but also namely to watch brave souls jump into the sea below. Head downstairs to the base of the establishment to take in all the action, or if you’re feeling adventurous, join the lineup. You can jump off the cliff from different points, anywhere from about 15 feet to 60 feet above, depending on your comfort level. Keep in mind the bar is cash only and doesn’t serve cocktails, only bottled beer. Oh, and it’s probably not the best idea to drink and jump!

Cave Bar More

Another dazzling watering hole, Cave Bar More is located on the Lapad peninsula just two miles away from the bustling Old Town. It’s set within a natural cave beneath the Hotel More, extending three levels and opening up to an idyllic outdoor patio on the cliffs. (This bar can also be rented for private events like wedding parties and proposals, so you can expect the vibes to be top-notch). Naturally, the cocktails are Insta-worthy as well.

D’vino Wine Bar Dubrovnik

Although Croatia is quickly becoming a force in the wine world (Croatian wines earned over a dozen metals at the 2022 Decanter World Awards, the most prestigious wine competition in the global industry), few Croatian wines are exported. To sample some of the country’s finest while you’re visiting, head to D’vino Wine Bar Dubrovnik. This homey haunt has over 60 wine varietals, including a number from local small wine producers and family vineyards across Croatia’s renowned wine regions like Slavonia, Istria, and Pelješac. Choose from a vast selection of deep reds to dry whites, and consider pairing your vino with one of the bar’s gourmet meat and cheese platters. For a more hands-on experience, D’vino also hosts educational wine tastings Wednesdays through Sundays starting at 210 kn per person (or about $30 a pop).

Where to Stay

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St. Joseph’s

Nestled on a quiet street just a few steps away from the Pile Gate, the St. Joseph’s boutique hotel is about as charming as it gets. The 16th-century building contains just six rooms, which have all been elegantly renovated while still retaining some of the original stonework. I began my stay in the cozy attic room and moved to the Deluxe King Suite during my second night. Aside from the Deluxe Apartment (an adjacent cottage that was once a family home in the 13th century), this is the largest space you can stay in—complete with a sizable lounging area, a dining table, kitchenette, and luxe marbled bathroom with his and her sinks. And if the sophisticated digs weren’t enough, the delightful staff treats you like absolute royalty. Every morning, guests can take advantage of a complimentary breakfast of local sweets, savory dishes, and a signature green smoothie prepared by the in-house chef. And when you stay in the King Suite, you can get the spread delivered to your room (you can best believe I rolled out of bed in the hotel’s plush bathrobe and slippers to grab mine). The concierge also provides superb 24-hour service and will kindly walk you and your luggage to and from the hotel and city entrance, since no cars are allowed to drive within the Old Town.

Villa Dubrovnik

My visit to Restaurant Pjerin left me enraptured by Villa Dubrovnik itself. A scenic 15-minute stroll from the Old Town, this secluded property is a dreamy, airy oasis. There are a total of 56 guest rooms, all of which feature private sea view terraces and some of which even boast their own plunge pools and jacuzzis. Other on-site amenities include an outdoor deck for tanning, an indoor swimming pool, gym, sauna, and even a sun-drenched library for when you just want to curl up with a good book. My takeaway: You could truly relax here all day and not feel guilty about it.

Hotel Excelsior

Part of the Adriatic Luxury Hotels network, Hotel Excelsior is one of the swankiest hotels in Dubrovnik—with a five-star rating and past celebrity guests like Queen Elizabeth II and Elizabeth Taylor to prove it. The 158-room property is set in a former royal villa, now outfitted with modern, custom-made furnishings and a variety of opulent amenities. There’s a fitness center, two restaurants, a spa with Turkish baths and an indoor swimming pool, a private sunbathing area, and more. The entire property is just a five-minute walk from the fortress walls, but if the idea of luxuriating in your bathtub while taking in the Old Town sights tickles your fancy, the Excelsior Signature Suite will be right up your alley.

Beauty Picks

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